In a picturesque valley beside a gently flowing river we found Trebinje; a peaceful and charming town in the heart of Bosnia and Hezegovina‘s wine country. In the centre, sprawling cafes come to life as locals and tourists alike shelter from the intense summer heat. While the rustic suburbs remain sleepy and simply beaming with vibrantly-coloured flowers and plump seasonal fruit.
Little Trebinje is easily navigable on foot, making it a perfect day by walking and looking around the Old Town, or explore the suburbs, strol along the river or if you’d rather indulge in the wining and dining culture that the region is known for, it’s an ideal place for a slow-paced weekend escape.
SAMPLE THE GRAPES
When in wine country there’s no better way to escape the heat and while away the afternoon than sipping on a chilled glass of white under the shade of the plane trees, or wine tasting in wine cellars. And so, on this trip we will do it all.
Hotel Platani, with a separate restaurant and bar, is the most popular gathering spot for both locals and tourists. Set on the sprawling leafy plaza across from the fresh produce market, it’s one of the best places to nurse your wine and watch the world go by. The food is also excellent.
Considering the area is famous for its wine, there are couple famous wineries in the area. The main winery located within walking distance from the old town is Vinski Podrum Vukoje 1982. It’s a fairly upmarket place and the interior is a little sterile, but the views over Trebinje and the vineyards are lovely, as are the wines. They do self-directed tastings priced per glass and the restaurant is open for lunch and dinner.
Several kilometre outside of town are the Cellars of the Tvrdoš Monastery and Andjelic Wine Cellars, both of which do tastings.
WATCH THE SUNSET FROM HERCEGOVAČKA GRAČANICA
Unmissable on a hill overlooking the city is Hercegovačka Gračanica, a Serbian Orthodox church, built here in 2000.
From here the views are the real highlight looking out over the clunkily put together jigsaw that is Trebinje nestled in the mountains. Clusters of identical Soviet-style apartments, the grey walls of the old town and the red roofs of the suburbs dotted between a lush tangle of grape vines and fig trees.
Take the short uphill climb out of town at sunset when the river shines golden between the verdant hills.